Jewelry, coming from the east

The year before, Cartier released his "Odyssey" promo at the French Embassy. It specifically mentioned the good relationship between several Asian countries and brands. The cheetah, symbolizing the French spirit, has to pass through the snow-covered Russian castle and set foot on the Great Wall. Look at the Chinese dragon.

Of course, before connecting the earth in the era of great navigation, we must say that jewelry jewelry always has a strong national character. The early Greek people loved wearing garlands, and a large number of jewels appeared in the shadow of olive branches. Nile women's necklaces, gold and malachite in the BC's hand ornaments, Europe's dark medieval, people sometimes even embossed the scriptures on the gold medal, to decorate, in the 10th century Dunhuang murals Chinese women have already worn a variety of jewelry overlays.

Despite the distinctive regional features, we can still see the influence of early Eastern culture on Western jewellery. The jewels of the Roman Empire, the forerunners of European civilization, are the masters of the early European jewellery, not only with the jewels of the Mediterranean world, but also It has absorbed the characteristics of jewellery in places like Etruscan and West Asia. These jewellery later became the pioneers of Byzantine-style jewelry. The reason why the two can communicate at a very early time is because gold has been a very heavy or even the only valuable material for a long time. People invented many pairs of gold. In the court workshop of the 6th century, the technique of making gold silk enamel reached the peak for the first time, and the cockroach became the best match with gold for a long time.

The era of great voyages opened by the Spaniards has historically changed the jewellery independence of various countries. The Westerners first invaded Peru in South America and then brought back a large number of gems from India. After the 15th century Columbus voyage, Magellan and other great navigators finally arrived in China and Japan for the first time in the 16th century, and brought back a lot of extravagant clothing when returning to Europe, which brought the European Far East civilization for the first time.

In the 18th century, books of jewellery design style swept across Europe, beginning to make the style of jewelry difficult to define by the state. In the 19th century, due to the maturity of the route, trade development and new material development meant that more people could own jewelry, and at this time, jewelry use began to appear in all aspects of life. In the 1870s, people began to like it. There are also many jewels, pearls, gems and flowers are worn on the head. This dress is often seen in small portraits that symbolize marriage and loyalty, but in Europe before, there was only a certain social class. Talents are allowed to wear jewelry, and men in the palace (blog, Weibo) like to wear gem-set buttons, buckles, shoulder straps, etc. to attract the attention of women.

During this period, Europe has ushered in the establishment of many large jewelers today, and commercial brands are beginning to take shape. At the same time, jewellery designers began to eclectic, a famous French jeweler AlexisFalize first introduced Chinese cloisonne art to France, he made a famous cockerel cloisonné pendant, the British EW Streat, As a jewelry designer, he started to come to Myanmar to find gems. He also held a Japanese art exhibition in the store on Bond Street in London.

Asia began to appear frequently in European jewellery designers' dictionaries. In the late 1950s, when European and Japanese trade channels reopened, Japanese-style art works attracted widespread interest from collectors in Europe, jewelry designers. They also began to draw on the style of art, TIFFANY in New York and ArthurLasenbyLiberty in London are at the forefront of this movement. This is very interesting, because in Japan, for a long time, jewelry disappeared into the woman's life, it only produced some simple beaded decorations. Compared with another country, South Korea, which is adjacent to China, Japan has not been affected by China in the production of jewelry.

An important reason why Japanese culture is respected in Europe. Before Japan opened its doors to the world, the Edo period imposed a closed-door policy on Japan for more than 200 years from 1603-1868. For Europe, Japan is like a mystery. Thus, when Japan was declared open in 1853, in 1854, London immediately held an art exhibition on Japanese works. These works of art profoundly influenced Westerners in the 1860s, Japanese prints, woodcuts, enamels, especially among them. The theme of oriental features such as flowers, birds and plants attracts the attention of jewellery designers. Japanese art works usually describe the calmness of nature and have pure styling. Westerners are quickly addicted to this from the Far East. With strong lines and asymmetrical proportions of art style, the Japanese took the lead in applying art production to life. The techniques of enamel, lacquerware, and color-changing metal inlays were also studied by Westerners. In the second half of the 19th century, this important foreign power of Japan finally helped the West enter the "new art jewelry" period.

China, on the other hand, is another force that cannot be ignored. Of course, the reason why Chinese elements can be favored by European jewelers is not only because of China's skilled jewellery manufacturing techniques in the Far East, but also because of the wealthy class's emphasis on jewellery. From the Shang and Zhou dynasties, people began to use jade to make a variety of accessories, just like gold, jade as a scarce material, won the honorable status of gold in the Mediterranean. Chinese men have long been wearing jade, and women's jewelry is the most abundant region in the world. People wear earrings, combs and other headwear very early. Earrings are also worn by women very early. People like colorful colors. A complex pattern of ornaments. The enthusiasm of several emperors of the Qing Dynasty for Western timepieces further promoted the exchange of luxury manufacturing techniques.

Today, large-scale jadeite works are still rarely used by Western jewellery brands, usually as a minor part of the decoration, such as the full range of ElsaPeretti jewellery from Tiffany, but during the ArtDeco period of the 1920s and 1930s. However, there are many jewellery ornaments designed with elements of jade as an element, which can still be seen on the auction floor so far. At the end of last year, Sotheby’s in New York produced a platinum jade bracelet designed by Italian jeweler Janesich in the 1930s. He used five carved jade beads and a total of 7.2 carats of cut diamonds made of white gold. The transaction price is about $90,000. During the ArtDeco period, European jewelers used jade to make a variety of wall clocks, hand-decorated boxes, etc. In April of this year, Cartier also exhibited in Hong Kong specifically for the American celebrity Barbara Hutton in 1933. Jade Pearl Necklace.

More jewelers' use of Chinese elements has only stayed on the symbolic representation. The dragon is the most Chinese element. Jewelers choose to use the most advanced craftsmanship to make dragon-oriented jewels and pick typical Chinese colors. Usually red and black), the purpose of which is mostly only one, to please Chinese guests.

Claude Albemarle, the second-generation heir to the jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels, is interested in India. He traveled to various countries in the 1950s and 1970s and was very happy with travel. The media at the time even called it "the king of diamonds in Mumbai." "And "Friends of the Grand Duke of India". He has entered the palace of the Grand Duke of India, where he has discovered numerous gems and jewels.

India is another important inspiration for the Western jewellery industry. Many modern jewellery brands have launched high-end jewellery with the theme of India. Indians have a long history of making jewellery. Around 1000 BC, in the graves of southern India Very beautiful jewelry has appeared.

In India, people are very obsessed with gems, and sometimes jewelry will almost cover the costumes and the limelight. India's Mughal dynasty is an extremely affluent empire. During that period, men and women wore jewels, weapons, armor, and even furniture with jewels. This is also the historical reason why Claude Albemarle is going to India to discover gems. He wrote in his travel notes, "Looking forward, the courtyard is covered with rare and rare treasures, which are placed in a century-old history. Inside the velvet jewelry box, it is now shining under the sunlight. I can't see it clearly in this dazzling light. The emeralds of various shapes and sizes complement each other with diamonds, and reflect the brilliant colors of sapphires and rubies. When I stare at Rewa's jewels, Golconda's diamonds, and oriental pearls brought back from other places, I can deeply feel the magnificent legends in The Thousand and One Nights and the romantic feelings of the Taj Mahal. refracted Oriental poetry. "Claude Albemarle in India also met his future wife Mherulisa, she was born in Pakistan, she added a personality and taste exotic inspiration from India to VanCleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels design.

For many Indians had not arrived, and people think Claude's description of India so alike. The spice of the country, on the jewelry material opened a new door for the West jewelers, whether the customer or the West Indian customers are very fond of Indian-style decorations.

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