With the continuous improvement of living standards, people's requirements for apparel fabrics are getting higher and higher, and those textile fabrics that are bright in color, soft in hand, drapable and resilient are favored by consumers. From the current trend of the clothing market, textile fabrics with special styles are the first choice for garment manufacturers. General development of such products is mainly accomplished through new materials and new processes.
Because the suede has a soft luster, a soft texture, and a fine and comfortable feel, it is popular with people. But because of the limited number of natural suede. Suede is more valuable. With the development of leather tanning technology, people can also perform suede processing of sheepskin, cowhide, and pigskin. Traditionally, people use this suede-processed natural leather as suede. With the development of productivity and the improvement of the level of science and technology, people have invented a method of man-made processing to produce suede. Usually, we use synthetic suede called artificial suede or suede.
Imitation suede fabric is a textile fabric with special style that is made of special textile raw materials and processed with special dyeing and finishing technology. It is one of the most popular high-grade fabrics in the domestic market. Imitation suede feel and appearance are quite similar to natural suede, its surface texture structure is similar to natural suede, after special finishing, fine smooth, soft and full, more durable than natural suede, but also easier to maintain . It is widely used in modern fashion, shoe materials, toys and furniture decoration. It is a novel decorative material. The suede is made of new raw material microfibers as the main raw material. After the reduction (grinding) process, it not only has the advantages of soft hand feeling, good drapability, strong stability (no shrinkage or elongation due to cleaning), but also good air permeability. Sex, pest control, anti-corrosion.
Artificial suede manufacturing methods can be roughly divided into three types: woven method, knitted method, and non-woven fabric method. We are using the first method.
1 Design Principles In the development of synthetic fiber suede products, the raw materials we use are the filaments of microfibers, which are woven into fabrics. After a special dyeing and finishing process, the surface of the finished fabric is finely and evenly formed. The fluff. The ultra-fine fibers have the advantages of being fluffy, elegant, and soft to the touch. The drape and softness of the ultra-fine fiber fabric are excellent and the hand feels comfortable. There are various types of microfibers, which are suitable for suede fabrics such as polyester/polyester-seafood fabrics and polyester/cotton cakes. Sea-in-the-sea fibers are opened by the dissolution method and the orange flap fibers are opened by the exfoliation method. Dissolving polyester/polyester-in-sea fiber by dissolving method makes it more reliable to turn microfiber into ultrafine fiber after opening fiber. Therefore, we are using polyester 16.7tex/36fx371 (Island Silk) + 7.6tex conventional polyester coated double braid, and polyester with the use of l1.1tex as the raw material for the development of imitation suede products.
The island silk is a polyester island filament of South Korea's Huiwei Shi Company. There are 37 islands in its single fiber, and after the sea portion is dissolved, the single fiber is 0.05 De. It has a powdery, soft feel and a suede-like appearance.
2 Analysis of Production Process There are three key steps in the success of suede production.
2.1 The quality of raw materials and the selection of the fiber formulation We chose the polyester island yarn provided by Korea Weaving Co., Ltd. In order to ensure the stability of the cloth quality, it is required to ensure that the raw materials are the first grade and the same lot number. The fibrillation recipe uses a special high temperature caustic water (150°C, pH=13-14 water) process recipe matched to the raw material.
2.2 Before the weaving process, the weaving process should be performed with a uniform twist or even coating. The vacuum and the process of raising and lowering the temperature during shaping are very important. Otherwise, the coloring phenomenon of the fabric is likely to occur after dyeing.
2.3 Grinding and moulting The moulting effect is not good and will produce dark and light colors. The buffing of the fabric is done through the cutting of corundum. The number of sand pits is small and the corundum particles are large. The force acting on the fabric during the grinding process is large, the milled hair is longer, and the strength of the fabric is also decreased. If the number of sand skins is too large, sanding is more difficult and the cost is increased accordingly. According to the sanding mechanism, we adopted the “first heavy and light†sanding process for the five sanding rollers, that is, the first sanding roller uses the lower mesh sand belt. The purpose is to cut as many fibres as possible into single fibres in the yarn; the last four sand rollers use a relatively high number of sand belts in order to continue to pull the fibres out of the yarn and cut them. It is important to grind and pull the cut single fiber into fluff. This will make the fluff after grinding reach the “fine, short and dense†effect better. The tension during dyeing is also very important. If the tension is too large, hair loss will occur, such as the shape of a chicken claw.
The suede treatment is mainly suede soft treatment, and the treatment of the suede directly affects the fabric handle and taking performance.
3 Conclusion As the suede-like suede is a sea-soluble island-in-the-sea silk fiber, the fabric is treated by fibrillation and after defibrillation and fibrillation, the fibers are separated from each other to form microfibre, which has a strong suede effect and is currently at home and abroad. The more popular mid-to-high grade fabrics have a wider market and substantial profits.
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