Beautiful jewels not only shine, but also the temperament and style of the wearer. When jewelry is connected with the user and appears in a specific historical field, the jewelry itself is embodied in a cultural symbol, symbolizing the identity and power of the user, and is constantly and consciously applied to become a customary vocabulary. Because the royal jewels are symbolic symbols of noble status, the newly rising celebrities or wealthy businessmen, the group of emulations, compared with the supreme honor, form a popular trend of fashion; even the new, leading the way, with the royal taste Competing against each other. Jewelry and users complement each other and complement each other. From ancient times to the present, the attention is given to the style of jewelry and the way in which jewelry is worn. They are not even gender-restricted and transcend cultural differences between East and West. The court jewels of the Qing Dynasty emphasized the virtues and connotations of their own, and the crystal and rarity of the ore is not the most important focus. European court jewellery is a symbol of the power of the whole country. The princes and princes of the monarchy show off their wealth and power by glamorous and brilliant jewels. The 475 component precious exhibits of the "Royal Fashion Qing Dynasty Court and Western Aristocratic Jewelry" exhibition jointly held by the "National" Palace Museum in Shenyang, the Shenyang Palace Museum and the Cartier Collection have recreated the jewels of the Qing Dynasty and the Western aristocrats in China. The East and the West meet and blend in different time and space, and the possibilities of materials, techniques and texts are diversified, which ignites a beautiful spark and creates a richer cultural meaning.
Jewelry of the court of the Qing Dynasty
Jewelry in the court of the Qing Dynasty was never just to express the beauty of the ore, because the simple beauty of the vague refers to luxury and superficiality. The reason why jewelry is cherished is its virtue and connotation. Dongzhu is distinguished because it is produced in the land of Longxing in Manchuria; lapis lazuli, honey wax, coral and turquoise are used to worship the gods of heaven, earth, day and moon because of the ratio of material color; the design of the ornament is often blessed. The meaning of auspiciousness or festivals such as birthday and peace. In addition to the gems themselves, not only the rarity and crystal sensation, but also the phytosan, nucleus, bodhi and other plant materials, because of the special scent or related to religious significance, are generally made into beads, bracelets and other accessories; kingfisher The feathers are favored by the ladies because of their irreplaceable bright colors. Gold, more worthy of its currency, has always been the eternal favorite of the Chinese people. In the development of court jewellery in the Qing Dynasty, those who belonged to the ritual norms were often kept in the same way; but the women's usual decoration, under the principle of not violating the Manchurian tradition, the style is increasingly gorgeous and exaggerated. Because of the interception of Chinese makeup features, the use of Western enamel, glass material, and the Western jewel cutting and mosaic techniques, the style of the court jewels of the Qing Dynasty presented a multifaceted appearance.
Royal ritual treasure
In the 42nd year of Emperor Qianlong (1777), Emperor Gaozong completed the "Imperial Ceremony Pattern", in which four volumes were used to regulate the crown of the courtiers of the monarchs, and they were properly dressed according to the status and sacrifices. The use of dazzling gold and rare beaded gems, paving colors, combining the intrinsic patterns and specific patterns of Manchurian traditions together constitute the unparalleled supreme honor of the royal family.
The most luxurious jewelry that best reflects the royal ritual can be described as a non-crown. The crown is the hat that was worn during the ceremony. After the dynasties, the phoenix bird with the head of the bird is the main representative. The Qing Dynasty is no exception. . In the exhibition, the Qing Dynasty Emperor's crown of the Qing Dynasty, the crown of the blue velvet slanted crown, the crown is covered with red silk weft, the phoenix bird is surrounded by 7 phoenix birds, and the head, neck, back and wings of the phoenix bird are decorated with Dongzhu. 9 pieces, 20 pieces of small East beads on the tail of the screen. The towering crown is composed of three layers of golden phoenix. Each layer is separated by the east pearl. The phoenix bird and the tail are also inlaid with the east pearl. Not only that, the phoenix bird behind the crown is specially set with cat-eye stone, three pearls hanging behind the crown, the center is connected horizontally with lapis lazuli, and the end of the bead string is adorned with a coral pendant. The phoenix bird is made of golden silk, and the east pearl is unique to the Qing Dynasty. The steady red and gold are the main tone, with striking white pearls, solemn and gorgeous, fully demonstrating the royal temperament. According to the records of the "Emperor's Ceremony", the Qing Dynasty's dynasty's dynasty's dynasty's dynasty and the summer's velvet are the same form, but the crown is after the bead string, the queen is the five elements and two, the guard collar is dying, the emperor The noble and the nobles are three lines and two, and the guardian collar is golden, so it can be inferred that the work should be used by Huang Guifei.
The scorpion was the dress of the women at the time of the grand occasion, and it was also the crown of the plaque with the kimono. The scorpion is braided with wire or rattan, wrapped in silk or satin, and then fixed with various colors. According to the ceremony, the phoenix, the scorpion and the scorpion are nine, eight and five. Hey. It is made of black velvet and satin strips, and is decorated with silver or copper wire. In addition to the top and the mouth, the top row of the front is composed of 7 square enamel ornaments, the center is a circle 钿 3, and the left and lower sides are each long oval. Shaped, each enamel decorated with a silver-plated hammer made of flowing moiré as the bottom, embedded in the coral plaque, the word is decorated with the East Pearl; the ornament is full, the text is arranged in an orderly manner, the mouth is hanging The beaded tassels, half-covered on the wearer's forehead, appear lively and subtle. The shades of the two shades are bright and colorful; the corals are steady and joyful, and the whiteness of the pearls enhances the overall brightness; the style is dignified and the rules of work are representative works.
All kinds of headwear presents a unique style
In the Qing Dynasty, the Manchus formed a special ethnic group in the society. The Manchu women combed the "two heads" on weekdays and decorated the various flowers and flowers. The style of the enamel decoration, regardless of the golden silk in the early Qing Dynasty, the glaze of the Daoguang dynasty, or the inlaid gems and beadings after the Tongzhi dynasty, all present the glory of the Qing Dynasty ladies. After the court of the Qing Dynasty, the jewellery of the court was undertaken by the Department of Food and Agriculture and the Department of Production, the work of silk, the work of jade, the operation of the teeth, the inlay, the work, and so on. These court jewellery styles are noble and elegant, and the workmanship is meticulous. The number of gold and silver jewellery used is difficult to count. These exquisite ornaments are made of gold, silver, jade, pearls and gemstones of various textures. They are crafted with heavy silk and enamel inlays, plus the unique gold in the Qing Dynasty. The crafts of silk and point green make the court ladies of the Qing Dynasty appear more noble and elegant, beautiful and moving, and also reflect the superb craftsmanship of the craftsmen.
The original meaning of the head lice is the splicing. Because the crown is used to send tools, the tool will be called ç°ª. Later, it became an ornament on the head of a woman. Aristocratic women "wearing Jin Jium's jewelry, adorned with pearls to drive", like to be full of glory. In the Qing Dynasty, the palace was full of exquisite jewels, silver inlays, chrysanthemums, silver-plated inlaid jewels, and gold-plated jewels. The hairpin making process is very complicated: the truss of the specific shape is made of gold and silver, and the truss is raised around the truss. The concave part of the middle is affixed with feathers. It is made of emerald blue and purple feather velvet. It is accompanied by a circle of "Phnom Penh", embedding jade, pearls, tourmalines, corals, precious stones and other precious materials, and then decorated with auspicious patterns.
Another common headgear in the Qing Dynasty was the knot. The knot was originally made of hairpins that were fixed on the fabric of the scorpion or the eyebrows. It was more common in the early Qing Dynasty. The knot often uses the decorative technique of the point green, the pattern is mainly flower; the style is various, and the shape of the oval with two pointed ends is also very common, and the side is arched to be suitable for the head shape. The "golden-encrusted diamond flower knots in the early Qing Dynasty" expresses the curled moiré with a bit of green, and the patterns of the moiré are the same. The central diamond-shaped flower area is dominated by diamond-studded floral patterns. The diamonds are highlighted by a subtle green background. The diamonds are surrounded by a silk-embedded ruby ​​three-petal flower. The flowers are decorated with pearls, rubies and Green gems, bright and moving. It can be seen from the structure of the back that the knots are made up of the same unit, the moiré, the flowers, etc. are supported by the wire and welded to form the base, and the gemstone is placed on the metal bracket and fixed by the wire; Solid, it is the finished product of the Qing Dynasty.
a jewel that highlights the European king
European court jewellery is a symbol of the power of the entire country. Since the 16th century, the overseas colonies of Spain, Portugal, and England have begun to return their gold and precious stones to their home countries. The enamel diamonds produced in Brazil, India and South Africa illuminate the royal jewels. The French sun king Louis XIV, the most dazzling jewels in the whole body, met with the Gentile envoys at the Palace of Versailles. The exquisite robes are adorned with diamonds, which make the visitors dazzle. This unprecedented stage and momentum has shocked the monarchs of all countries in Europe and competed for each other. They have taken the Versailles court as their teacher. The crown scepter jewels are an important decoration that highlights the European king.
During the 18th century, the glory of the princes of the European monarchs was often no less than their wives. The paintings at the time showed that these noble men also wore earrings, hanging necklaces, and brooch. Among them, the most prominent of the jewels is the French King, but the French King likes to give valuable gifts, jewels to other kings and diplomatic envoys, to congratulate the other party's royal wedding, baptism and other festive events. Originally heavy antique jewels, such as necklaces, boutonniere, and crowns, gradually become light and elegant. New designs are coming out, creating new ideas outside the original flower and animal motifs. The inspiration comes from the pattern of brocade tapestries: garlands, enamels, drapes, tassels, etc. The Paris jeweler also began to gain a reputation in the international arena at this time. However, in the 19th century, the European monarch princes almost no longer wear any jewelry, at most in grand occasions. Because the monarchs at this time often appeared in the image of military uniforms, and changed to wear swords, medals, diamond buckles or diamond-studded buckles. At the same time, the gorgeous jewels are displayed by women, showing their strong strength with a visual image.
Emperor's jeweler Cartier
In 1847, Louis-François Cartier founded Cartier jewelry at Rue Montorgueil in Paris, and prospered during the Second Empire (18521870). The Italian road in the heart of the Palace District. Cartier has expanded rapidly, with prominent customers throughout France, Europe and Russia. Princess Mathilde (the niece of Napoleon I, the cousin of Napoleon III) and Queen O'Jean (the wife of Napoleon III) soon joined the ranks of the guests. King Edward VII (the enthronement time 19019110) once marveled: "The jeweler of the Cartier emperor, the emperor of the jeweler!" His queen Danish Princess Alexandra is also a frequent visitor to Cartier. Later, the nobles also followed the example of the King of England, ordering expensive and gorgeous jewels from Cartier, and proving their own superiority, as well as paying tribute to their kings on official occasions. Between 1904 and 1939, Cartier won the appointment of 15 kings, including Britain, Spain, Portugal, Belgium, Romania, and Greece. The Cartier service also includes India's wealthy princes, who are eager to show the world their jaw-dropping gorgeous necklaces and strong jewellery strength, paying their most beautiful gems to Cartier, reinventing them into modern styles, and giving up Huang Chengcheng's old gold seat, changed to a pure white and attractive new platinum.
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